Cleaning and Lubricating Your Tremolo Posts & Knife Edges

Listed below are a some basic steps needed to ensure that your 2-post or Floyd-type tremolo will deliver years of great, return-in-tune use.

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The first thing we need to address is something that the factory or builder didn't: LUBRICATION. This is so important, it's not even funny. You don't drive your car without oil in the engine, right? Why would you drive your tremolo (which is also metal-on-metal contact just like your car engine internals) without some sort of lubrication? Exactly, so we need to apply something to those points. I see a lot of people complain about their trems not returning to zero/neutral after a dive or raise. This isn't because their knife edges are dull or messed up; it's because they've 'seized up' or galled the metal between their posts and knife edges due to use without any lube. There's a great amount of tension at the post/ knife edge junction, and it's under constant pressure, even when you're not playing.

I've seen a few things on various web sites about filing knife edges on tremolos. This is an incredibly bad idea. DO NOT FILE YOUR TREMOLO'S KNIFE EDGES! You can not get that metal back, and will likely completely screw up your trem to the point that both it and the posts need to be replaced. Repeat: Do not file your knife edges!

Now that the basics and warnings are out of the way, let's get to the fun and easy parts. The first thing we'll need is lubricant. For years I've used this lube from Permatex: it's called Ultra Slick Multi-Purpose Lubricant w/PTFE. PTFE stands for PolyTetraFluoroEthylene. For the non-chemisty majors, that's tech-talk for "good stuff". It contains Teflon that imbeds itself into the microscopic pores of the metal, helping make it a very smooth, non-stick surface. Any medium-strength lubricant will work fine, but something that is Teflon-based or contains PTFE is definitely preferred here. You'll also need a pair of small needle nose pliers and a few cotton swabs so you don't have to use your fingers to apply the lube. And don't forget the cleaning items:

- Acetone (nail polish remover; scented, if you're into that sort of thing)
- A 1" chip brush (like a paintbrush)
- A plastic bristle brush (like a toothbrush)
- A pair of small needle nose pliers
- Paper towels or a shop rag.
Oh, and a small Phillips screwdriver for the cavity plate screws.

DISASSEMBLY
Ok, now over to the bench so we can start taking stuff apart- everyone's favorite part! If this is a double-locking guitar (meaning you have a locking nut), be sure the nut is locked.
Let's flip the guitar over and remove the tremolo cavity cover plate from the back of the guitar. It's usually rectangular-shaped and uses 6 small screws to hold it to the body. Inside you will see a bunch of springs and other stuff.
Let's get the names of everything straight:
The Claw (aka: tremolo claw, trem claw, hook claw).

Spring (aka; tremolo spring, trem spring).
Each spring has an "O" end for the claw, and an "L" end for the trem block.

Tremolo Block (aka: trem block, sustain block, fulcrum block).

To remove the entire tremolo without taking all the strings off, just remove the springs in back. Ahhh- but before you pull all the springs, make sure there is something holding the front of the tremolo so that the strings don't yank it out of the body, possibly causing damage to the trem, or to the finish of the guitar. Simply grip the back edge of the guitar and apply a little pressure with a few fingers on the back edge of the tremolo before removing the last spring.
I use a pair of small needle nose pliers to lift the spring's L-end from the tremolo block, like this:

Please be careful when removing springs. They *can* pop out and fly towards your eyes, genitals, etc. Use your opposite hand as a simple safety cover...just in case. If you're worried about hurting your hands, put on a glove.

When all the springs are removed from the back of the guitar, you will notice that on the front of the guitar, the strings have started pulling the tremolo out of the guitar body.

That's ok; that's what they're supposed to do. Just make sure that before you turn the guitar over that you keep ahold of the front of the trem so it doesn't fly out or flop around.

Tip: Maybe it's just me, but I like to remember what spring went in what slot. This way they go back in the same slot they came out of. Not really all that crucial, but...some people like to do it.
Tip: If you locked your nut at the beginning of this (and do not adjust your tremolo claw or the tremolo posts), when you put the springs back in, your guitar will still be in tune.

Ok, so we've now flipped the guitar over and are still applying a little pressure to the tremolo to keep it in the cavity so it doesn't flop around. We can let go of it now (slowly), and ***CAREFULLY*** lift it out of the guitar body.

You might need to shift the trem a bit from side to side ***CAREFULLY*** in order for it to clear the trem posts and the trem cavity.

Be careful not to change the height of the trem posts (unless you want to re-setup the guitar). Set the trem, with the strings still attached, off to the side.
That wasn't so hard, was it?
Tip: With the strings out of the way, this is a great time to also perform any other maintenance the guitar might need- fretboard cleaning, fret repair/maintenance, pickup or pickguard adjustments, etc.

Use the chip brush to remove any dust/dirt/debris from the areas on where the strings lie, and brush out the tremolo cavity on the front of the guitar; do the back too while it's available.

Now let's focus on the actual tremolo and getting it cleaned and lubed. But first, some names for parts:
This is a Tremolo system (aka: trem, vibrato, whammy):

This is a Knife Edge (aka: edge, knife):

Popular Question- "Why is one of my knife edges round, and the other one straight?"

This is to prevent the tremolo from sliding 'up and down' in the trem cavity. One knife edge has a rounded face to ensure proper string & tremolo alignment.

This is a Trem Post (aka: tremolo post, stud, trem(olo) height adjustment screw):

This is an Ibanez Locking Trem Post:
Note the tiny set screw that's actually *inside* the trem post.

These are the main parts we will use in this lesson. There will be other lessons that describe the other parts of tremolo systems.

CLEANING
Before we lubricate the posts and edges, we need to make sure they are clean and free of debris. First, use your chip brush on the top and bottom of the trem, focusing on the area of the two knife edges. Since you've got it out, now is a good time to use the chip brush and just dust off all around the trem (top, bottom, sides). A clean trem is a happy trem.

Next, use a plastic bristle brush for a slightly deeper cleaning. These can be either automotive type, or a simple cheap toothbrush from your local store. Again, a few passes on the top, bottom, and sides of the knife edges and you should be good.

Apply some acetone to a cotton swab and wipe down all sides of the knife edges. You can do this as many times as necessary until you see a clean swab come back after a swipe.

Repeat the above steps with the trem posts, paying extra-special attention to the notch that the knife edges reside in. Make sure you clean all 360 degrees of the notch. If you have removed the trem posts from the guitar, clean the threads while they're out.

Check to make sure the swabs didn't leave any errant hairs or debris around the knife edges. These can be brushed away.
Pretty easy, eh?

LUBRICATION
Here we go.

Open your lubrication jar/tube and put a little (about the size of penny) on a scrap piece of paper. Break off the cotton end of a cotton swab. Use the broken end of the swab shaft to apply the lube to the knife edges and posts.

Apply it to the top, facial edge, and bottom of each knife edge.

Apply lube to the notched section of the trem posts.

A little lube goes a long way, so don't just goop it on there. Use the paper towels or shop rag to wipe away any large gobs or excess.

Now it's time to do a pre-fit and get that lubrication into the tight spots where it needs to go. ***CAREFULLY*** put the tremolo back into the trem cavity, making sure not to not mess with the trem posts. Fit the knife edges into their slots, and give a little pressure to the back of the tremolo so the strings go to work pushing the knife edges deep into the trem post notches.
If some lube gets forced out, remove it with the paper towel or shop rag.
Tip: I prefer to do a pre-fit, wipe away the excess, do another application of lube, and then a final fit of the trem. Just make sure that you wipe away excess. Lubrication is a good dirt magnet.
Tip: When re-inserting the tremolo assembly, make sure the strings are aligned correctly. :-)

REASSEMBLY
Now, let's reverse the procedure and get the trem functioning again. While applying a little pressure to the back edge of the face of the tremolo, flip the guitar face-down again.
Grab the L-end of the spring with the needle nose pliers and slide the O-end over its hook on the claw, lining it up with it's correct hole in the trem block. Now, this gets a little tricky, and takes some practice, but after you've done it a few times, it's pretty easy: Using the needle nose pliers, put the L-end of the spring into it's hole in the trem block.

Yes- I've had the spring slip off the claw or break, sending the nose of the pliers digging a line into the nice finish of the back of the guitar. If you have an alternate method of putting springs back in, you're welcome to use it. I find the pliers to be quick and easy.

Once your springs are back in, double check to make sure they're all seated properly.

Few things are worse than a spring popping out while you're playing a guitar (Ouch, on many levels).
Turn the guitar over and it should be in tune ready to play.

Using the Phillips screw driver, reinstall the tremolo cavity cover plate.

Now, my friend, you are ready to rock!

If you notice that the lube is turning brown or black, or your trem doesn't quite "feel" right, it's time to clean and lube it. I recommend doing this AT LEAST once a year; more often the more you play the guitar. It will seriously help your trem return to zero/neutral every time.

If you have questions, please let me know and I'll get them answered for you.